Over the years,
I've experienced the dubious pleasure of
riding or driving in heavy fog more than
I care to remember. This has often been
the case everytime that I've visited
Newfoundland, where some of the worse fog
on the planet occurs.
Fog: what it is
Fog and mist are along a
continuum. Fog is often defined as
visibility of 1 km (.6 mile) or less. The
basics that apply to general safe riding
or driving also apply when encountering
fog. This includes adjusting your speed
so as to not out-drive your
line-of-sight. In heavy fog, this may
require slowing down to 20 mph or less.
In extreme situations, stopping well off
the side of the road and turning off all
your lights may be the safest approach.
Why you cant
penetrate fog with normal headlights
Fog results from a mantle
of air moisture attaining 100% relative
humidity that condenses when it
encounters cool conditions near the
ground. It is composed of extremely small
water droplets. Each water droplet acts
as a reflector or disperser for light,
much like a suspended mirror. Together,
these water droplets bounce light off
each other, magnifying the effect. So
light, no matter how powerful, does not
effectively penetrate heavy fog. Most
bounces off and scatters. The more
powerful the light you shine on fog, the
more intense the back-reflectivity
created. In some cases, the reflection
can be near-blinding in intensity.
Based on this, some
<lighting experts> will sometimes
state that there is no such thing as a
fog light. They are correct in that light
from a fog lamp does not penetrate fog.
But they probably have little real-life
experience riding or driving in heavy
fog.
Given light scatter and
back-reflectivity, the purpose of a good
fog lamp is not to shine through fog but
to shine under it in order to illuminate
the road surface. The strong horizontal
cut-off found in good auxiliary fog lamps
allows this. Mounting a fog light low
increases its effectiveness. Higher
mounting means more light reflected off
the fog.
Placing fog lamps low also
enables more light to be cast closer to
the motorcycle. This is of critical
importance when dealing with denser fog.
Correct mounting height
and aiming are important for good
results. Fog lamps that are placed high
and then aimed downwards will result in
bouncing light off the road and into the
fog.
Ok, but if a little is good, isn't
more better?
The goal is to light up
the road under the fog with the least
amount of light intensity that will still
allow you to see your way. If you use too
high a light intensity, even with a
strong horizontal cut-off, the light will
reflect off the road surface back onto
the fog, creating back-reflectivity and
light scatter. For this reason,
installing higher wattage bulbs in fog
lights is often counterproductive.
Light-type matters
A very cool and white type
of light, such as that produced by HID
lights, is closer to the blue end of the
color temperature spectrum and is
beneficial in improving night vision.
Unfortunately, the color temperature that
makes HID lights improve night vision
also means that they create more glare.
Couple this to the higher intensity
produced and you have increased
back-reflectivity and light scatter when
encountering fog using HID lights. In
addition, there is more reflectivity off
the road surface. Even when using a
strong and low horizontal cut-off. This
is good for regular night-riding
conditions. Bad for fog.
Sometimes, less is more
Warmer light, whether a
normal halogen white or an amber color
typically used for auxiliary fog lights,
tends to produce less glare and reduces
back-reflectivity. In heavy fog
conditions, a relatively low-intensity
amber bulb (about 35 watts), coupled to a
fog lens and placed as low as possible to
the road surface will probably provide
the highest amount of usable light.
Why?
When you think about it,
how far you need light to shine under the
fog is limited by how far you can see
through the fog. If you can only see
through the fog for 100 feet, then having
a light that can shine under the fog for
3,000 feet is useless. And probably
counterproductive.
In addition, how far you
need to see mainly depends on how fast
you are going. In fog, my speed is
usually way down. Sometimes to 20 mph or
under. I don't need to see for miles
ahead at that speed. But I do want to see
as best I can for the 30 to 200 feet in
front of me. For me, that means with the
lowest back-reflectivity and light
scatter possible as well as the lowest
reflectivity off the road surface. The
relatively warmer light normally found in
good fog lamps helps in this. So do
lower-intensity lightbulbs.
This becomes more
important in denser fog where there is a
greater quantity of suspended water
droplets in the air. Think of this as a
higher number of suspended reflective
surfaces. So the denser the fog, the
lower the light intensity you want to
use.
Benefits of auxiliary fog lamps when
driving in fog
When compared to a
relatively narrow driving light beam that
projects further ahead, a good fog lamp
beam is broad in scope. This illuminates
the sides and shoulder of the road,
enhancing peripheral perception. What you
give up in depth, you gain in breadth.
Purpose Rules
Fog lamps can also be very
effective when used as cornering lights.
A higher
placement, along with a higher wattage
white halogen bulb and lens or a HID
light, will enhance illumination into the
the corner and to the sides of the road.
In this application, a slight re-aiming
is beneficial to ensure effective beam-
spread when leaned.
Sumary:
Within reason, a good fog
lamp is not principally about the color
of the bulb or lens. More important, its
ability to enhance visibility when riding
in heavy fog depends on the following
three points:
- How effective the lens
or the Free Form reflector is at
directing the light output.
._This
is where a quality fog lamp makes all the
difference.
._
- How well the fog lamp is aimed. The
best lamps will give poor results if
aimed
._improperly.
- Using a lower-wattage bulb of a warmer
light when riding in denser fog. This
will
._reduce
glare.
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