Technical Diving:

The gear configuration must not be seen as disparate components, but as a cohesive and complete system. Each element impacts the performance and use of other elements in the configuration. The diver must develop the ability to build, analyze and evaluate gear configurations based on their safety and performance. I must repeat loudly that owning the equipment is not enough to make yourself a safe diver. Proper training is one of the key elements in safe diving. Gear configuration is an important aspect of any well-conducted technical diving training.

One last thing before explaining my own gear configuration... When making changes to configuration elements, do not hesitate to seek advises from other experts. This is what I recently did myself when I wanted to adopt elements of the Hogarthian gear configuration.

My gear configuration evolved tremendously since I was initiated to technical diving back in 1990. I learned a lot reading various books, magazine articles, videos and specialized forums on the internet, but I learned to understand gear configuration during the various technical courses I took (with many instructors).

• Drysuit
• Drysuit Underwear
• Tank Configuration
• Harness
• Regulators
• Dive Light
• BC Device

One important aspect to consider is the seal fabric. Many divers like to use latex seals. This is what I was using originally with my Viking suit. After realizing that those seals break very easily and at best have to be replaced yearly if any serious diving is made, I decided to sacrifice a little bit of dryness for more reliability. I now use reversed neoprene seals.

Drysuit Underwear: Safe technical diving requires the certitude that we can stay warm underwater in all conditions. My DUI cold water Thinsulate underwear gives me much more confidence in that area. I once made a 60 minutes dive at Les Escoumins (30F water) with the neck seal not reversed. While I was completely wet, I was able to make the dive without undue discomfort. This is very reassuring when attempting decompression dives where it is required to stay underwater regardless of the problems you may encounter.

I also use a Viking open-cell underwear when diving in relatively warm water (>60F).

Tank Configuration: When doing deeper dives or penetration dives, I use a set of OMS 95 banded together with Dive-Rite Stainless-Steel bands. 95's represents the best price/capacity ratio and is very adequate for our diving conditions in the province of Quebec. The valve system consists of a dual-outlet manifold with tank isolation capability. This valve system allows me to deal with most potential failures in the gas delivery system (tanks, valves, regulators). Years ago, I was diving independents (each tank had a K-valve). I now realize all the flaws in this system, the main one being the overly complex gas management techniques required. At least two divers died in Quebec in the recent years using independents (one ice diving and one wreck-diving).

Harness: I own two back-plates/harness systems that I use for technical dives. The first one, based on a Dive-Rite ABS back-plate evolved from observation of gear configuration in the wreck-diving community. It includes two sets of shoulder (or chest) d-rings, two waist d-rings, two brass rings, a 1 inch webbing crotch-strap (with scooter ring on the waist loop) attached with a plastic quick-release, a chest strap (with quick-release and a d-ring for attaching my dive light when not in use), sewing of webbing to the brass rings and a quick-release buckle on the left side. While very convenient, reliability of that system is questioned by many experts due to the plastic quick-release buckles and also due to the sewing of webbing pieces.

The WKPP (Woodville Karst Plain Project) heavily applies the KISS principle on the harness design. They prove that a very simple harness may be utilized even for extreme diving. My new harness is mounted on a "Lacasse Special" stainless-steel backplate. This plate allowed me to get rid of all the weight that was required when I was diving with my Thinsulate underwear. The harness is simply a one continuous piece of webbing (that does not cross behind my neck -- contrary to my Dive-Rite harness). I kept two sets of shoulder (or chest) d-ring. The upper set is used to attach stage bottles while the lower set is used to clip backup lights. Those d-ring (the lower set) will be replaced by a different, smaller model. I also kept the two waist d-rings. However, they are both attached much nearer to the back-plate. My safety reel is attached to the right one while up to two stage bottles are attached to the left one in addition to my pressure gauge. I have no chest strap on this arrangement and the crotch strap is a 2" webbing with two d-rings (one in front and one in the back). It is noticeable that my front d-ring is not attached to the waist loop, but simply on the strap so the pull is on my back instead that on the waist strap (when riding a scooter).

To the bottom of the back plate I attach a lift-bag (when wreck or open-water diving). I also attach either a back-up light or an argon bottle (when doing open-water dives) to the left side of my harness.

Regulators: My primary regulators are now Scubapro G500/MK20 and G250/MK20. I also use Sherwood Ultima (a SRB3600 first stage with a Poseidon Jetstream second stage) regulators on stage bottles (except for the O2 bottle which has a O2 service Sherwood Blizzard). I have to admit that while I like the versatility of the Scubapros, I am not as much impressed by its performance as some magazines are (when compared with my Ultimas). However, I feel it is a necessity to use a "standard type" of regulator for donating to a buddy in distress. With the Poseidon second stage, there is always a risk that the receiver would not clear the regulator properly before breathing it (if the second stage is tilted with the exhaust purge upward). The MK-20 first stage configuration represents a compromise. It makes proper hose routing difficult and it also allows for water and debris to penetrate in the piston chamber (making it less reliable). All regulators, except for my O2 regulator have DIN fittings. While I believe it is much safer to use DIN fittings for back-mounted cylinder, I think this may be more hazardous for stage bottles (this could be an interesting subject for a discussion over the Techdiver list).

One important aspect of gear configuration is how the main regulators are utilized. I used to stuff my long hose on the side of my right cylinder and later to the right side of my backplate. At that time, I was breathing the short-hose regulator which was attached to my neck (by mean of a neck strap) while the secondary regulator was attached to my right shoulder with a latex tubing loop and a clip.

The most impacting change in my gear configuration was to breathe from the long-hose regulator. The best way to arrange the right post regulator when breathing the long hose is to route that hose down on the right side, under the waist-mounted light, across the chest and around the neck. The secondary regulator (which is mounted on the short-hose) is attached to the neck with a latex tubing loop. It is needless to say that this arrangement allows for very fast deployment of the lifesaving regulator to our buddy and also eliminates all needs for lost regulator retrieval skills (as the secondary is just below the chin and the primary can't go anywhere besides the right side of the chest). I said 'most impacting' because this arrangement also impacted how I wear my stage bottles and my primary dive-light (it even impacted which type of light I use).

Before leaving this subject, let me point out that on a set of doubles, no more than two (2) second stages are required along with a single pressure gauge. You may notice that I do not have more hoses than a sport diver normally handle on a single tank setup. As well, to make my configuration well streamlined, the hoses are of custom length. The long hose is seven (7) feet, while my BC hose is 15 inches and my pressure gauge hose is 26 inches (this one should really be a 22 inches hose).

Dive Light: Presently, I use an American Underwater Lighting Spectrum-14 as my primary light. This one is mounted on the right side of my waist strap and is held in place with a dedicated waist buckle. As shipped, the power cord is too long and needs to be cut. I removed 9 inches from it so there is just enough cord to extend the light head with my left hand. I also own a Dive-Rite Neutralite 12/24 that I use during shallow water cave dives. The battery pack for this light is attached underneath my cylinders. While being comfortable and low drag, this configuration is less stable than the waist mounted configuration (as for my AUL) and the rectangular shaped battery pack is not suited for deeper diving.

BC Device: With my 95's, I use a Dive-Rite set of Wings (now named Classic Wings). This BC provides approximately 50-60 pounds of lift and is quite streamlined. It is important to note that I do not have a "pull-dump" device which would make the setup less reliable. Instead, I made sure that my 12 inches custom corrugated hose is attached by mean of two tie-wraps at each end. Personally, I believe that many dangerous lifting devices are now sold on the market. When evaluating BC's, a diver should honestly assess lift requirements to achieve safe diving (on this aspect, bigger is certainly not always better). My dry-suit is my backup BC. Should I dive with a wet-suit (which I do not since many years), I would consider adding a second set of wings on top of my primary one (something such as my Junior Wings).

Sport Diving:

Gear configuration for sport diving looks relatively simple when thinking about what is taught during the openwater courses. However, the diver would certainly benefit from adapting elements of cave diving or other technical diving configurations to sport diving. I want to point out that this would not be the first time that the cave diving community brings safety elements to sport diving. The "rule of thirds" was invented by Sheck Exley, a prominent cave diver. The BC and the octopus were both first used or developed by cave divers.

I always hate to see divers and students with un-organized gear and dangling octopus and gauges. How do you think a stressed out-of-air diver would feel receiving a poor performance, full of mud octopus after an un-reasonable delay (caused by yourself searching for the *&^$ octopus)?

I have two regulator configurations for sport diving. One is the same as the one I use for technical diving (with two first stages mounted on an H valve). The other one is a very conventional regulator setup (a US Diver Artic) that was adapted to increase safety. The primary second stage is mounted on a five (5) feet hose that is routed under the right arm, across the chest and around the neck. The secondary second stage (the octopus) is attached to a standard hose and tied around the next with latex tubing. It is important to note that a tuba cannot be attached to the mask using this configuration (it would make it difficult to deploy the regulator during an emergency).

The console is clipped to one of my chest d-ring on my left side.

As it is the case for my technical diving setup, BC hoses are also custom made for my sport diving setups. I use a back-plate/harness system with a Dive-Rite Junior Wings, my BC hose is of 15 inches of length (corrugated hose is 12 inches). I also have a Transpac/Sport Wings BC system to which I attach a 22 inches BC hose.